Churches & Poland

Hello,

I forgot to mention something about Villnius. Whilst I was there I visited several churches, the outside of which were fairly innocuous (in European terms) but the insides were a stunning mix of icons, murals, gilt and columns. It also appeared to be service time, so I had a sneaky peak at a jewish ceremony and a longer one at an orthodox ceremony.

In Villnius, there is a large icon of Mary situated in the one remaining gate from the original city walls. This icon is supposed to have healing powers which is why not even the invaders could bring themselves to tear down this gate. I was actually going to take a closer look at the icon which is upstairs in the gate, opposite a balcony, but couldn´t get past all the people!

Music and singing was being relayed into the cobbled street, and I was surprised to realise it was coming from inside the gate. Then I noticed a priest was standing up on the balcony (next to the icon of Mary). He had his arms outstretched (a little like the pope) and was giving a service. It was unbelievably moving to see all these people lining the streets to take part in this service. The priests even came out to give Holy Communion and the people kneeled where they stood to recieve it. Simply beautiful.

Next stop, Gdansk, Poland. Gdansk is a jazzy city centred around a river with many flamboyantly coloured and decorated seven story high old buildings. Like most European cities, the old part had been levelled in one war or another but completely rebuilt. This week there was free street entertainment with groups coming from France, Spain and, of course, Poland.

I spent one day at the beach and the next visiting a castle near Gdansk, fitting in the town inbetween, so it was a very busy couple of days. The castle is the largest brick castle in the world, built in 15th century by the Teutonic Knights. Impressive fellows, the castle not only had a sewage system, but heating, a hotel, a monastary and a brewery (they drank an average 5litres of beer a day!). It too has been restored after World War II and the Germans decimated some of the buildings.

Off I went to Warsaw, which was a terrible disapointment. After the charms of Villnius and the party atmosphere of Gdanks, the communist tower blocks and grey buildings had me cowering in corners. Even the old town couldn't cheer me up.

In fact the best aspect of Warsaw (and the only photo I took) was of the lifesize, brightly painted, plastic cow sculptures they have all over the city! Something to do with an exhibition... At least they made me laugh : )

Currently I´m in Odenze having a wicked time with my friend Peter. Tomorrow we go to Copenhagen to stay with his sister and on Monday I go to Sweden.

Hope all is good with you.
kx