When dreams come true

Greetings from the desert,

I know I visited the desert before but now I am surrounded by it. It's everywhere - the heat, the dust, the duststorms, the dry, the heat. Yesterday we measured it and it was over 50 degrees centigrade. That's my hottest yet. A cool 42 degrees in the shade. Rock on.

Ok to briefly skirt through my last week in Morocco. Brian and I met up with Mark in Maarrakesh and headed North (we're supposed to be going South!) to see some waterfalls which were stunningly beautiful until you came close and noticed the rubbish littered around. Then we headed south, finally. This better be worth all the waiting around! We hooked up with another overland car (2 South Africans) who we are travelling in convey with. The car is an acient land cruiser but amazingly durable as later stories will reveal. Touch wood as still have many sand dunes to cross.

Most nights we bush camp or free camp which basically means pulling off the road after dark so no-one can see where we are camping ilegaly. First night was in abandoned campsite with small risk of flooding if they decided to open the dam gates and a chance of bear sightings which we woke up for at the crack of dawn only to see wild boars, second night in a gorge with palm trees dotted around, third night next to someones orchard, 4th night on a goat herders land who were very perplexed (and excited) to see what we were doing there.

Next couple of days were at a beach with fishing and a very short attempt at snorkelling because the sea was freezing! We cooked over camp fires every evening but my bottle of wine, even rationed at one glass a night lasted too breifly and then I was alcohol less even though the others get to enjoy a sundowner beer.... Where's the cider I ask you??!

We spent an afternoon climbing around on the Blue Rocks which are basically a collection of rocks in the middle of a mountain range that some odd Dutch person decided to paint blue. Apparently fire hoses were used.

Most of the time I can't believe this is actually happening to me. On the camino I talked about finding a car but as the days went on and I realised how few overlanders are travelling this time of year, and the ones who are don't want backpackers, I figured it to be if not impossible, at least highly unlikely. The freedom of having a car although I don't particular enjoy the amoount of time we spend in it is such a wonderful change. You really see a different side of the country. I love all the camping, the fires; the lack of showers, living in nature, making do with what you can, random exploratory trips.

This is a dream come true. Marc wants to go to all the countries I was planning to go to and after that I'll see. Just let the water flow, if this is where its taking me than why fight it?! He is going round all Africa which clearly I can't do but ideas of crossing the Congo are appealing. I'm just making the most of this opportunity. It'll be another 6 weeks at least by then I'll be craving scuba diving. I'm missing it already.

Brian, Marc and I gel really well. Used to travelling and just getting on with what needs to be done or what you want to do, accepting people (and their moods) and not letting it bother you, talking a lot of crap and having a lot of fun. I am incredibly fond of both of them already.

Basically I am having the time of my life.

Just one last word on Morocco, after a week of no showers I dragged Joanine to the local hamman. They are single sex with as much hot water as you can handle. Basically you strip, find a space for your mat (or plastic bag) to sit on, fill up buckets with hot water and then use this waxy soap. To get the waxy soap off you have to scrub yourself with a mitt kinda like a scouring pad. The first time I had it done it was by the local cleaner woman. Not only does she scrub so hard, but she scrubs everywhere! My skin has never felt so soft and you do feel clean.

So I was at least squeaky clean when we faced the mine filled boarder crossing. Brian took a photo by the warning sign whilst I was throwing rocks into mine terroitory and ducking for cover just in case : ) We've had some particularly silly photos. When we came across 2 giant camel statues, we spent half an hour hoisting me up onto their shoulders to make a camel human body double, just to get the perfect shot.

Hope all is sweet in your worlds.

Lots of love,
kx

P.S. Currently in Atar, Mauritania; otherwise known as the middle of the f***ing desert.